Crochet Flat Circle Calculator
Round-by-round increases for a flat crochet circle from a magic ring.
Result
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 sts
- R2: [inc] × 6 = 12 sts
- R3: [1 sc, inc] × 6 = 18 sts
- R4: [2 sc, inc] × 6 = 24 sts
- R5: [3 sc, inc] × 6 = 30 sts
- R6: [4 sc, inc] × 6 = 36 sts
inc = 2 stitches in one. Worked as written the increases line up in spokes — that is normal, and blocking flattens it. For a rounder edge, shift each round’s increases over a stitch or two.
Work 6 rounds, starting at 6 sts and adding 6 sts each round.
Calculated at fibercalc.site/flat-circle — free knitting & crochet calculators.
How to use
- Pick your stitch: single, half-double or double crochet — taller stitches start with more stitches per round (6, 8, 12).
- Enter how many rounds you want to work.
- Read each round: the first round is worked into a magic ring, then each round adds an even set of increases, like [2 sc, inc] × 6.
- Offset the increases each round so they spiral rather than stack — a stacked circle turns into a hexagon.
Good to know
- A circle lies flat when the increases per round match the starting stitch count, which is set by stitch height: 6 for single crochet, 8 for half-double, 12 for double crochet.
- If the circle ruffles it is increasing too fast (or your gauge is loose); if it cups it is too tight — go up or down a hook size.
- For amigurumi, crochet tightly (often a hook size or two down) so the stuffing does not show through.
FAQ
- What is the flat-circle rule (6, 8, 12)?
- Each round of a flat circle adds the same number of stitches it started with, and that number depends on stitch height: 6 for single crochet, 8 for half-double, 12 for double. Add fewer and it cups; add more and it ruffles.
- Why do my increases form corners like a hexagon?
- Because they are stacking directly above each other. Move each round’s increases over by a stitch or two so they spiral around — the calculator’s brackets keep the count right; you choose where to place them.
- How do I make it flat for amigurumi?
- Amigurumi starts with the same flat-circle increases, then stops increasing to curve into a ball. Crochet tightly so there are no gaps, usually going down a hook size or two from the ball-band suggestion.