Amigurumi Sphere Calculator
The full round-by-round pattern for a crochet ball — every amigurumi shape starts here.
Increase
- R1: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 sts
- R2: [inc] × 6 = 12 sts
- R3: [1 sc, inc] × 6 = 18 sts
- R4: [2 sc, inc] × 6 = 24 sts
- R5: [3 sc, inc] × 6 = 30 sts
- R6: [4 sc, inc] × 6 = 36 sts
Work 5 even rounds at 36 sts (no shaping).
Decrease
- R12: [4 sc, dec] × 6 = 30 sts
- R13: [3 sc, dec] × 6 = 24 sts
- R14: [2 sc, dec] × 6 = 18 sts
- R15: [1 sc, dec] × 6 = 12 sts
- R16: [dec] × 6 = 6 sts
dec = 2 stitches worked together. Stuff firmly before the last few decrease rounds, then close the hole with a yarn tail.
How to use
- Pick your stitch — single crochet is standard for amigurumi so the stuffing does not show.
- Choose the size: the number of increase rounds sets how wide the ball gets (widest count = base × rounds).
- Work the increase rounds, then the suggested even rounds, then the decrease rounds, which mirror the increases.
- Stuff firmly before the last few decrease rounds, then close the small hole with the yarn tail.
Good to know
- The decrease rounds are a mirror image of the increase rounds, which is what makes the ball symmetrical.
- The even section keeps the ball round rather than squashed; add a few more even rounds for an egg shape.
- Crochet tightly (usually a hook size or two down from the ball band) so the stuffing stays hidden.
FAQ
- How big will the ball be?
- It depends on your yarn and hook — the calculator gives the stitch pattern, not the finished centimetres. More increase rounds make a bigger ball; work a small one first to gauge your size.
- Why increase then decrease by the same amount?
- A sphere is symmetrical top to bottom. Increasing to the middle and then decreasing by the same steps mirrors the shape so both halves match and it closes neatly.
- When do I stuff it?
- Start stuffing once the decreases begin to close the opening, and add more firmly before the last couple of rounds while you can still reach inside. Firm stuffing keeps the ball round.